I've never had a hangover cure quite like it. Stepping outside into cold November air at 8pm in Budapest wearing a swimsuit and nursing the world’s highest blood alcohol level, all the hairs on my body stood on end with unpleasant, freezing shock.

Thirty seconds later, plunging into the steaming, naturally heated outdoor springs, I decided that this is the future way to solve any and all problems. I floated along in the wave pool, soaked my hair under the spray, found a bubbler to stand against, and relaxed my hangover away.

Noticing guests coming in and out of the main building, I eventually braved the cold again, and was rewarded with the what must surely be the world's largest variety of pools, saunas, steam rooms and hot tubs all under one (beautiful and grand, like all major buildings in this city) roof.

Warm pools, naturally heated water, cold pools, plunge pools, sport pools, hot tubs, saunas and steam rooms of different temperatures, sizes, and scents put my body through so many variations of sensation that if I felt dreadful coming in, I couldn't even distinguish what I felt going out, except relaxed, clean, and resentful to have to leave such a glorious find.